When I was out and about with Venetian photographer Marco on our photo walk, I had the opportunity to simply 'chat' with him and ask him some questions which puzzled me. I asked if there was any significance to all the bas relief 'faces' and figures often at the top of doorways throughout Venice.
"Yes!", he exclaimed. "They would probably be over the doors that are right on the canal, or on streets that were once canals. Many have been paved over. In the past people believed that at night there were many evil spirits 'on the water'. The faces are to keep the spirits from entering the portals into their homes."
Cool.
(
Yes,that fixed stare and those bulging eyes would scare me!")
Alright- tee, a travel adventure....
Last visit my old friend Peni and I (who had traveled with me) had been struck by the sheer number of gypsies (Roma) there were begging in Rome and in Venice.
Also we were greatly annoyed by the sheer number of North African's selling knock off purses and 'cheap kiddie crap' such as slimy goo and twirling lights. The latter were most aggravating because you couldn't seem to take a step without one calling out to get your attention.
Really? I just walked by and/or said a vehement "NO!" to this guy's kiddie slimy goo, why would you think I would stop and inspect the same kiddie slimy goo 10 steps further?
Happily, this visit I noticed a huge reduction in both the number of these individuals begging and selling on the streets, but also that now, two years later, that they no longer tried to actively solicit your interest but remained mum as you walked by. A big improvement! There must have been a crackdown, I thought.
I truly do think this is the case as witnessed by myself and Donna, one of the Rick Steves' group members, when we were wandering through the calle of Venice together...
So picture this...
We are simply strolling along enjoying a glorious day in Venice away from the main touristry areas. All of a sudden we heard a lot of shouting. We stopped and turned. There coming toward us in a gallop was a North African man with a string of purses (looped together) over his shoulder.
We plastered ourselves against the wall as he sprinted by. Before we could even blink, a second man sped by with his purses. Coming up there were two more men - a policeman and a third North African. The policeman was able to grab him and a wee shuffle ensued.
Donna and I remained paralyzed, pressed up against the wall.
There was some shoving and lots of raised voices (in Italian). The North African began to shout over the shoulder of the Italian policeman.
Naturally Donna and I did not understand what was said, but within seconds the second man who had already escaped returned to the scene. The man being held by the policeman hurled his loop of counterfeit purses over the head of the policeman! It landed right in front of Donna and I, about 5 or 6 feet away!
You know, for one split second - quickly rejected - I actually thought I should grab the purses. But I did not.
The North African who had returned instantly scooped them up and disappeared a second time.
The policeman scuffled a bit more with the 3rd man and then marched him away. There was muttering. A pair of sun glasses that had fallen during the scuffle remained on the pavement.
I guess protecting the merchandize investment is more important than getting away?
What boldness of that second man to return to collect it, though? Actually, I could use another phrase (also starting with a 'b' but for politeness sake won't). So, yes - we witnessed one example of a crackdown!
Side note: Just about a half hour earlier we also saw a young, petite gypsy girl with a begging cup being frog marched away by 3 big Italian policemen. I know it is sad, but I am happy to see this action - but surely there is a better solution to these problems? If so, it has to be tackled by all of the EU because it is huge, not just in Italy.
Angel with the column
Bridge of Angels, Rome
:D
I left Italy, of course, with a bit of sadness. It is just such a wonderful, beautiful and enthralling country, it is hard to say good-bye. I left, however, with a very nice 'flavour in my mouth' down to the delightful driver I had for my trip to the airport.
I had to leave early in the morning and be ready to 'rock and roll' by 6 am. The people at the Hotel Lancelot were extremely helpful in arranging a ride, including providing me with the expected cost for this approximate 45 minute ride.
I was, as usual, all ready on time. (Side note: I was raised in a family where if you weren't 10 minutes early, you were actually considered late!). And so also was the driver, a positive point for a nervous solo traveler.
He was a private driver and helped me into his vehicle. As he settled himself behind the wheel he said, "You are going to Fiumicino?"
Now our tour guide Alfio said that Italians always seem to say things more than once. So I simply said, "Si, si." (Side note: I use the double 'si' as opposed to the triple 'si, si, si' that seemed to be favoured by the rest of the group. Not sure why, only that it seemed more natural to me.)
The man turned around in astonishment and exclaimed (thankfully in English), "You speak Italian!"
"No! No!" I said. I was terrified that he thought I was misrepresenting myself. "I wish I could, but I don't." (My 'Si, Si' must have been very convincing!)
Then we settled in for our ride and he was utterly delightful. He pointed out all the various attractions we passed while still in the city proper. He talked about other areas of Italy... For instance, he said Vesuvius was sleeping and was a real danger. Not so much Etna, he thought, since Etna isn't sleeping... He was very interested to know where I had visited in Rome. He even told me I had seen a fair bit in Rome during the visits I had made.
When we arrived and he unloaded my luggage he said, "You will come back to Rome. And by then you will speak Italian!"
:)
Pictures to capture "my Venice", images which I keep in my head in my absence...
This blog will be top heavy with Venetian pictures, but honestly - so easy to get a good picture of Venice. Every corner, every second there is a moment in time to capture, a memory to savor.
I did all of these without any help from Marco - but they were taken after I had had my session with him, so it shows (hopefully) that some of his teaching sunk in my aged brain.
Actually, he told me he wanted me to take pictures that "told a story", so I guess you are getting a story this posting! :)
More of Burano and Torcello...
It is just so easy to simply upload pictures of Italy. Its beauty is astonishing and should cause awe by itself. However, I did promise a few stories so here is one. Not the most dramatic story (yet) but a travel memory.
I believe I had posted an earlier statement re: how engaging and - yes flirty - Italian men are. I think they are born that way. And don't get me wrong - I am not complaining, quite the contrary. Here's one example where a very nice (and good looking) Italian man did not have to make me feel good about myself, middle aged woman that I am, but did...
It was on the day of the first day of when I met my group. That day was rainy. I had already visited the Correr museum on my museum pass but there was also an exhibition of the work of "Leger' on as well. At the time I had decided to postpone going to the Leger in order to save it as a treat for myself should the weather turn. (There was always that threat in the forecast so I was balancing my time between in door and out of door wandering through the magical lanes of Venice.)
However, the perfect time to see it occurred.
There was quite a crush first thing in the morning and I was patiently waiting in line. There was some (unknown) fuss going on with the family group ahead of me in the line and now at the counter. However, in due course it was my time.
I went to the nice (did I already mention good looking?) Italian man. I requested a ticket just for the Leger since I had already visited the museum.
He smiled and said, "You had a museum pass? May I see it?"
I was able to comply with this request. He said, "Then madam I am able to offer you a SUPER SONIC discount on your ticket!" Only 4 Euros!
I thanked him, smiled and turned away. He beckoned me back with a crook of his finger. "Madam", he said.
I turned back in haste. What had I done? He said, "Signora, always remain so happy!" Then he smiled and winked and (yes!) made my day!
Bless you flirty Italian men!
Now more pictures of Italy - this time magical Burano and Torcello, new to me.
A few stories.... some, but not all, of the following pictures were taken when Marco and I were on our photo walk. So picture Marco hovering over my shoulder giving me advice. "The picture to take is...." . Then he would always add "... in my opinion."
One of the following pictures Marco took. He had my camera because he was demonstrating a way to set its semi-automatic features. He spied a good photo opportunity. He took the picture and passed the camera over to me and when I looked at it, I loved it. I said simply, "Thank you Marco."
He smiled. I added, "You know Marco, I am going to tell everybody I took that shot."
Marco laughed and flung up his hands. He said, "But OF COURSE YOU TOOK THAT SHOT! IT'S ON YOUR CAMERA! WHO ELSE COULD HAVE TAKEN THAT SHOT? OF COURSE YOU TOOK THAT SHOT!"
Can you guess which of the following Marco took?
RE: the photo of the man with the hat walking. I took that shot and was pretty proud of myself since I had been trying to follow Marco's advice among which was taking photos that "tell a story", "capture the mood or essence of a place", etc.
I handed the camera to him to critique. He did compliment me telling me in general I have a "very good eye, especially for the tourist shot" (which he told me to continue to do). Side note: Not necessarily the strongest of endorsements, but I'll take it. Marco is an experienced commercial photographer after all and I'm glad his standards are high. :)
However with the man with the hat walking one he had more feedback to give.
"But CAROLYNN, he is NOT BALANCED! Our bodies have postures which should in pictures be BALANCED. In walking it is when you are STEPPING FORWARD. THIS MAN IS JUST RAISING HIS FOOT. HE IS NOT BALANCED!"
Good feedback but I figure I was lucky to get the shot I did. :) :) :) (I tried to pay better attention in the future, though.)
Once again, for your viewing pleasure click on the first photo and then click to scroll through them.
And yes folks, there will be more of Venice still. Just count your lucky stars if you are merely a 'blog viewer'. Just think what all my friends and family will be subjected to re: pictures since what you see here is but a mere fraction of what they will have to view... in person, in an album, with a lengthy explanation by me.
.... until I get around to the stories. :D
Soon I will begin to compose and relate 'stories' of my trip. But that takes a bit of time and more thought than I'm able to devote to it at the moment (spring yard clean up and garden preparation beckons). In the meantime, just a few pictures of 'what I did' as opposed to stories of 'what happened'....
Borghese Gallery - I stayed my one extra day in Rome solely to see this gallery. Incredible works of sculpture by Bernini were the highlights. Two years ago when I last visited I naively thought Peni and I could get tickets 5 or so days in advance for entrance. No go - all booked up. So this time I was prepared with having purchased my ticket - day and time (limited to 2 hours in gallery) - months in advance. The answer to whether it was worth is is a decided, unconditional YES! No pictures to share since none allowed in the gallery, but I challenge people to look it up and see the wonderous works of art housed there.
In addition, this season was a beautiful time to visit the Borghese grounds. Here I can share pictures.... (Remember to click on pictures for full screen viewing pleasure!)
