Monday 5 January 2015

Valle de los Caídos - "Valley of the Fallen"

Cuelgamuros Valley, Sierra de Guadarrama, vicinity of Madrid, Spain

This incredible structure is a Catholic basilica built originally as a memorial by Spanish general and dictator Francisco Franco to honour and bury those who fell during the Spanish Civil War. It was claimed by Franco that the monument was conceived as a "national act of atonement" and reconciliation, however even to this day it remains controversial. 

Consider:

  • 10% of the construction workforce consisted of convicts, some of whom were political prisoners
  • Franco is buried there
  • Franco is buried there although he did not die in the Spanish civil war
  • Jose Antonio Primo de River, founder of the Spanish Fascist movement is buried there
  • These graves continue to be a symbol of fascism and is a draw to those inclined toward it – Antonio said that only a few months earlier when he was visiting with a group that a young man came to Franco's grave, knelt on one knee and made the 'heil hitler' salute

Regardless, Franco wanted this monument to reflect "the grandeur of the monuments of old, which defy time and forgetfulness".  Without question it has achieved that criteria and is, quite simply, awe inspiring. 
 
The long vault was tunnelled out of solid granite, piercing directly into the side of the mountain. It continues to the massive transept, which lies exactly below the cross above.

This cross - The "Basílica de la Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos”, aka theBasilica of the Holy Cross of the Valley of the Fallen” is the tallest memorial cross in the world and is hewn out of the granite from the granite ridge upon which it is erected. 

In 1960 Pope John XXIII declared the underground crypt a basilica. However, not unconditionally. Although Franco said this was a tribute to the Spanish conceived as an act or reconciliation, the only bodies buried there were those which fought on his side. 

His Holiness would not sanctify the structure until it also housed the earthly remains of soldiers from Franco's opposition was well. This was rectified.  In addition, since no church or basilica can be larger than St. Peter's in Rome, the vault had to be divided with gates shortly near its entrance so that the length of the "basilica proper" was shortened. 

The Benedictine Abbey of the Holy Cross of the Valley of the Fallen (Spanish: Abadía Benedictina de la Santa Cruz del Valle de los Caídos), on the other side of the mountain, houses priests who say perpetual Masses for the repose of the fallen of the Spanish Civil War and later wars and peacekeeping missions fought by the Royal Spanish Army. 

No pictures of its interior were allowed so the picture/s here I took from the web – just to give a wee sense of what it was like.  (I took all the other pictures, just not the ones of its interior, just to be clear.)

It was built in a breathtakingly inspiring and beautiful location. It took my breath away. 
(Once again don't forget to click on the images to see the photos best.)












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