As with most things I was introduced to in Spain I found the old city of Cordoba absolutely and utterly and completely and wonderfully AMAZING.
Here is a taste of what I saw. (Side note: The premier Cordoba attraction is, of course, the Cathedral Mosque - yes you read that correctly a "Cathedral Mosque". You see it dominate the old city skyline. It will be covered in its own post.)
Roman Bridge - Over the Guadalquivir River
There was a bridge on this site built by the Romans in the early 1st century BC, believed to have replaced a previous one in wood. This current bridge was built during the Moorish era on the ruins of what was left of the old Roman construction.
These bridge arches are examples of Moorish architecture that can be observed throughout the whole of the old Cordoba city.
During its history the bridge was restored and renovated several times (in particular in the 10th century) and now only the 14th and 15th arches (counting from the Puerta del Puente) are original. It was extensively restored in 2006.
Antonio said that traffic (shockingly) was still being allowed on it until only just very recently. It is now only open to pedestrian traffic.
Calahorra Tower
This tower was built during the 12th century to protect the Roman Bridge and one of the entrances to the city. It originally consisted of an arched gate between two square towers.
The building was restored in 1369 by king Henry II of Castile. A third tower was added to the existing ones, in the shape of two cylinders connecting them. Do you see this?
The tower was declared a national historical monument in 1931.
Peurta del Puente (Cordoba's old city arched gate/entrance)
This ancient entrance to the city was built on the northern end of the bridge (16th century reconstruction). This gate is located on the site of previous Roman and Moorish gates which united the city to the entrance of the Roman Bridge.
The construction of a “new”, larger and more modern gate was commissioned to architect Hernán Ruiz III by the city's governor Alonso González de Arteaga on 18 February 1572.
The structure has a central square passage, sided by two couples of Doric columns.
Wow. I mean WOW. What an impression that gate would make for visitors entering the city through it. It's awe inspiring now in our age of skyscrapers and colossal mega structures - how awe inspiring would it be "back in the day"?
St. Raphel
The Archangel Raphael is Cordoba's
protector, and there are images and devotional statues all over
Cordoba.
In the 17th century, a sculpture depicting St. Raphael was put midway on the old Roman Bridge, executed by Bernabé Gómez del Río. It is still a site of devotion, as you can see.
In the 17th century, a sculpture depicting St. Raphael was put midway on the old Roman Bridge, executed by Bernabé Gómez del Río. It is still a site of devotion, as you can see.
Overlooking the Roman Bridge and next to the Mosque-Cathedral is the Triunfo de San Rafael column, the most elaborate of many devotional columns and images in Cordoba commemorating the Archangel Raphael's promise to protect its inhabitants.
The column is set in a charming square with a delightful fountain.
For those of you who know me, you will know I LOVE fountains! When I first signed up for this tour in December I had been saddened by the thought - although I had accepted it - that I would be visiting when flowers weren't in bloom, when trees would be bare, when fountains would be empty and silent. HOW happy was I to be proved wrong!
It was begun in 1765 but Michel de Verdiguier made changes to the original design and it was finally finished in 1871.
Side note: Antonio said that Raphel is one of the most common names for boys in Cordoba still. He said his name Antonio is one of the most common names for boys in Spain. (Thought I would share this because I thought you might be interested. I was.)
The Guadalquivir River watermills
Along the banks of the Guadalquivir are the Mills of the Guadalquivir, moorish era buildings that took advantage of the water force to grind the flour. These watermills were declared an Andalusian Historical Heritage site. I think this big one is the “Mill of Albolafia” (Molino de la Albolafia)
Antonio told a story of how one of the royal ladies (I think) had some of the mills moved further down the river due to the noise it made and how it had disturbed poor privileged her. My story is a bit sketchy however and I know what Antonio would think. He would think I ought to have paid better attention at the time.
Orange trees
These orange trees are ornamental. Antonio said the taste of the fruit was dreadful. He told us to trust him on that because if they weren't then "there wouldn't be any oranges left on the trees".
Antonio said that every young child is told this but that each child always, always has to try it him/herself. He said that eventually the oranges are harvested (I think he said these types) and sent to the UK to be used in marmalade.
Ah! So that's why marmalade has such a bitter taste to it!
SO.... now to enjoy a few pictures of these absolutely, utterly, completely, wonderfully amazing sites. Once again, click on them to bring them into full screen.
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