Il
Gobbo di Rialto - AKA Hunchback of the Rialto
The
Hunchback of Rialto in Venice is located in the Campo S. Giacometto
near the Riato Market. It was sculpted in 1541 by Pietro da Salo
Grazioli and was restored in 1836.
Campo San Giacometto (one of the oldest churches of Venice):
The Hunchback - picture following - and from this perspective I would be standing beside it - was
used as a podium for official proclamations: the statutes of Venice
or the names of offenders would be proclaimed by an official standing by or on the block.
At the
same time the same statutes were read out at Pietra del Bando on the
corner of the basilica of San Marco, on the south side facing the
lagoon (more on this later this blog).
Il
Gobbo was also used as the finishing point for a punishment for
minor misdemeanours; the guilty party would be stripped naked and
made to run the gauntlet of citizens lining the streets from Piazza
San Marco to the Rialto, saving themselves further humiliation (and
pain because people could hit or throw things at you!) by kissing the
statue.
If you're very fast I imagine you could make it there in 15
minutes. I imagine being naked, humiliated and hit would add speed
to your heels!
Il Gobbo is also one of Italy's 'talking statues' – i.e. A place where the common
people made complaints and protests against the powerful. A public
bulletin board for political satire, so to speak. In the past
attached to it were pieces of paper with protests, comments and
ironical or sarcastic jokes.
Pietra
del Bando (Corner of San Marco Basilica, south facade)
The Pietra del Bando is another "Proclamation Stone".
I can't
believe I didn't get a decent picture of this column, but I didn't. Pictures I have of this corner of the Bascilica always had people walking right in front of it.
(I think this is because of some subliminal need in me to have a
reason to return to Venice.)
However, it is a truncated
reddish/purple marble column/pedestal (shows dark grey in this picture) where proclamations were read
out (as before at the same time they were read out at the Hunchback).
This is not a good picture of it but hopefully you can see it.
It is
also the stone on which, according to ancient chronicles, the
Serenissima ordered that the heads of traitors to the Republic be
displayed for three days and nights. This is why I was told by
Marco, that way above the column at the top along where the balustrade is, is a red disembodied head
in purple stone – to remind people of this history!
Pink
Columns
Among
the rows of white columns of the Doge's Palace there are two that are
pink. (Can you see them?) According to legend, they mark the spot where the doge used to
stand during ceremonies, and from where death sentences were read out
to the crowd below. The pink colour symbolizes blood.
Piazzetta
di San Marco
Piazzetta
di San Marco is the adjoining area connecting the south side of San
Marco Bascilica to the lagoon. This used to be the main entrance to
Venice, which of course makes sense since Venice was a port city and
this is where everyone would have their first views of Venice. At
the lagoon end of the piazzetta are the two columns of the patron
saints of Venice – San Marco (of course) and San Theordore.
Executions
took place between the two columns of San Theordore (white with crocodile) and San Marco (dark winged lion).
They say that even today superstitious Venetians won't walk between
them.
Four
Tetrarchs
You
already saw one of my 'arty Marco assisted' shots' of these.
Here is the 'tourist shot'.
Some
historians say they represent the four joint rulers of the Roman
Empire appointed by Diocletian, a time in Roman history when the
Roman Empire tried to share power among four military leaders by having two
senior emperors and two junior emperors. (Didn't last long I think –
Roman emperors weren't known for cooperation.)
Now it is thought
probable that they actually represent the sons of the Emperor
Constantine who were praised for their loving co-operation on his
death in 337. This is the current thought since it is proven they originally came from Turkey - the missing foot of
one of the figures was discovered in the 1960s in Istanbul (AKA
Constantinople).
Do you see the white, replacement foot for one of the tetrarchs?
Marco
told me that Venice asked for the missing foot from Turkey but Turkey
refused. I giggle... A bit of 'cheek' on the part of Venice, perhaps, since they had been taken from Constantine in the first place
by the Venetians in booty when the city was sacked in 1204.
However,
once they got to Venice and were incorporated into the architecture
of San Marco Basilica, their meaning changed... In other words,
there is a legend around these figures as well...
This
legend is that the sculpture was created by Saint Marco himself who
turned four robbers into stone who were caught trying to steal his
treasure from the church.
Thanks, I learned a few new things about Venice!
ReplyDeleteThank you Nola! Hope you found it interesting... I had known about the "Hunchback of the Rialto" before I went this time (but not last time), so I wanted to hunt him down... the Tetrarchs I knew 'a bit' about, but learned more with some research... the 'Pietra del Bando was new with the research I did... hence no decent picture of it... as with my 10th angel... a good enough reason to eventually return to Venice (although not in next trip). You have a great cabin holiday!
DeleteGreat photos! I particularly like the "Pink Columns" one, though the symbolism behind the pink columns is unfortunate.
ReplyDeleteThank you honey-bunny! I am trying to use this blog as a 'travel journal' so I don't forget what I did, learned, some of the funny or unusual things that happened. Hope people like it.
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